Part I Article 5: On the Shoot
Sunday, March 13, 2011 at 3:03PM All of this preparation work will be for nought if you’re late getting to your shoot location, so make sure you use a good navigation application that takes traffic into account to make sure you get there in time. I use Navigon Mobile Navigator, which gives voice-guided navigation as good or better than any stand-alone GPS, plus it offers free traffic data for life. If you’re looking for something cheaper, you can simply use Google Maps as this includes traffic data in most metropolitan areas, but if you get lost you’ll have to stop and re-navigate. You can also check if there is a dedicated traffic map or application available for your area, Seattle has one called Seattle Freeways which shows both the WSDOT traffic map (with your location overlayed if you want) as well as the actual traffic cameras.
The first actual photography tool I’d like to talk about is the exposure calculator. These calculators allow you to find different settings that will all result in a similar exposure, or calculate how much you’ll need to change your settings for a desired change in exposure. While this calculation can often be done by the Auto functions of today’s DSLRs, most professionals prefer to find and set the correct settings in Manual mode, thus ensuring that all of their photos come out identically (and hopefully properly) exposed. If you are new to photography and wondering what a good starting place for exposure settings are, the app DSLR Toolkit for Dummies has an extensive list of situations and subjects and recommended settings for each. Once you have some ballpark numbers, you can use a calculator like that found in PhotoBuddy or Expositor to find other combinations that will give you the same amount of light.
The primary reason to want to change your exposure settings without changing the actual exposure of a shot is to adjust the depth of field of the photo. Depth of field is a term that refers to the zone of sharp focus in a photograph, for instance many photos of flowers have shallow depth of field so that the background is blurry while the flower subject is sharp, while landscapes typically have a large depth of field so that trees fifty feet away and mountains miles are are all sharp. If you want to know how wide your depth of field will be at given settings, you can use an app such as FoCalc or PhotoBuddy. Both of these apps can also be used to find the ideal aperture setting for a given depth of field, which you can then plug into your exposure calculator to find out how long your exposure will need to be or how high your ISO.
Another handy thing you can use your iPhone for is to level your tripod. Many tripods do come with a small bubble level built in, but some do not, so this can be extremely handy. You can also use it to check that the tripod is plumb, to ensure that your pans will be smooth and level all the way around. I just use the free iHandy Level, but any free leveling application should work.
Ever get tired of lugging your camera’s manual around with you? Ever decide not to but wish you had? There is an excellent chance that your user manual is available as a PDF which you can view on your iPhone, but these can be very clunky and hard to navigate. Even better, some app developers have created tailored applications for specific camera makes and models with diagrams of the controls and video tutorials of their use. The DSLR Toolkit for Dummies has excellent diagrams of many makes and models built into it, but if you search the App Store for your camera model you will almost certainly find dedicated apps with more information.
Another book I often wish I had with me is a glossary of photographic terms and abbreviations. Many photographic apps have a glossary built into them such as the DSLR Toolkit for Dummies or Nikon’s Learn & Explore, but there are stand alone applications as well that may be easier to use. Your mileage may vary depending on how familiar you are with the language of photography, but it’s a nice thing to have around especially if it’s built into an app you already own.
There is one more tool that may sound like an excellent idea to have on you, and that is a color calibration chart. These are traditionally extremely expensive pieces of plastic or card stock printed with either a specific shade of grey or a smattering of carefully calibrated colors. You place one near your subject and take a test photo, which you later use when post-processing your photos to correct the color balance. These yield extremely accurate results and are essential tools for professional photographers, but any iPhone application promising to offer this functionality is the digital equivalent of snake oil. First of all, the screen of the iPhone is reflective, which means that it captures reflections and these affect the color of whatever is displayed. Secondly, the screen of the iPhone is not a precision calibrated and perfectly neutral screen. In fact, if you compare two different versions of the iPhone to each other, you will likely notice that one has a slightly pink tint to the screen while the other may be yellowish or blue. We don’t notice this unless there is something to compare it to, but this makes it completely useless as a precision color balance tool. So, if you come across any such applications in your searches, don’t buy them!
With that one exception, I have to say that there are hundreds of other dedicated photography applications out there, each one designed to help you and make your life easier, and each one has proven to be of at least some use in some situations. I highly recommend taking full advantage of them. The primary skill a photographer needs is the ability to see a good photo opportunity and take advantage of it, but photography is, even in this day and age, a very technical and difficult hobby to master. If these applications can help you even just a little along the way, they are well worth the usual $0.99 price tag.
